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COSTUMING



COSTUMING AREA'S: Childrens Costumes Peasant Costumes Middle Class Scottish Costumes
Noble Costumes How To Tips: Embroidery Patterns



HOW TO SECTION:

TIPS AND TRICKS TO RENAISSANCE COSTUMING
Ruff
Bag Cap
Ladies Caul Cap
Pouches
Cartridge Pleated Skirt


MAKING A RUFF

 

Start with making 5 yards of cotton tubing. To make the cotton tubing cut a 3 1/2 inch strip of 5 yards--fold the material over in half and sew down the edge. Turn the tuging inside out by using a safety pin and pulling it along from the inside of the tube to the outside, turning the material inside out.

Make a Cotton Ruff base by measuring your neck and then making a cotton tubing the width you desire (you can make a slender one of a large width one - I usually make one about an inch and a half). Make some slim ties and put them on the ruff base before you stitch it around on three and a half sides, and then turn it inside out.

 

Stitch 5 yards of lace onto the edge of your 5 yards of cotton tubing. Use a blind stitch and catch the edge of the lace to the edge of the ironed tubing. After all The lace has been sewn on, then you will begin to wind the cotton/lace tubing onto the ruff base. To make sure that I have enough material to make all the loops and also to make sure that the ruff is evenly looped and sewn on, I quarter the tubing by folding the entire length in half and then taking the middle of the tubing and placing that on the middle of the ruff base. The free ends of the tubing are then placed on the ends of the base.

 

Make sure to attach all the loops on ONE edge only of the ruff base so that you can adjust the tension of the other side of the ruff loops when you have the materials all quartered and evenly distributed. I use a tacking stitch with a double knot on each loop when I start adjusting the loops on the first edge. Once you have all the material halved and joined, you can then start adjusting the loops on the other edge. This makes an extremely well measured ruff.

My first ruffs often pulled from one side to the other because I would work in tacking in one direction only. Now. I work both edges inward toward the middle so that I don't have any pulling.


HOW TO SECTION:

Ruff
Bag Cap
Ladies Caul Cap
Pouches


MAKING A CROCHETED COVERED BAG CAP

 

Start with cutting an olong piece of material. I didn't have more than a half a yard of gold tissue to underlay my bagcap with, but it worked well. I turned under the edges twice, making a 1/2 casing. I then sewed around the edge of the oval casing. I left a little gap in the casing edges, so that I would be able to get a saftety pin with the elastic into the casing when I was done putting on the crocheted lace and beadwork.

 

 

I hand knotted all the beads individually. Yes it takes time, but the look is definately worth it.!

I started at the middle and worked the design in gold and pearl beads, keeping the colors in the renaissance tradition.

I then finished the cap by putting the elastic into the casing with the safety pin, and sewing the ends together. Measure the elastic the size of your head from the back to the top, minue 1 inch for tension.


MAKING A LADIES CAUL CAP

 

Start with cutting a piece of plastic canvas the size of the roundness you want (practice with a long piece of plastic and adjust the length down as you look into the mirror and watch how the size looks on the top of your head. After you have the lengh adjusted, cut the plastic with a small overlay to tie the ends together. I use craft wire. Then cut an oval or round plastic top piece and join the edgess to the round plastic base piece.

 

Sew on your base material then sew on your top material to the plastic form. Use a blind stitch. After which you should cover your top egde with some ribbon or braid. I used gold. I then put in my lining (pink satin), starting with the top piece of the circle, then finishing off with the side.

 

After all the braid has been put on, and the beads -- don't forget to add a button and a feather to the side of the hat for a nice jaunty look! Use plastic Hair combs sewn to the inside of the cap on the edge of the comb plastic to the insides of the cap. Use rubber bands in two strands of your hair to use to keep the combs in place and the hat from moving.


MAKING A LADIES POUCH

 

Start with cutting two pieces of round material, preferably one velvet or leather for a renaissance look, and one for the liner. Attach right sides together. If you want lace on the edge of your pouch attach it to the right side of the vevet before you sew your two pieces of material together. Make sure to leave a gap in the two pieces of material to turn the circle right side out. Also you will need the gap to help with the cording which will be in your casing around the edge of your circle. To make the casing, turn the ironed right side circle onto a flat board and pin the edges of the material 3/4 of an inch away from the edge. Sew on the 3/4 pinned marking on the material -- almost all the way around leave enough of a gap to get the saftey pin and cording through to the top of the circle. Then measure another 1/2 inch down from the first sewn ring and sew this ring all the way around (between the 1/2 inch sewn edge and the 3/4 sewn edge is where you will insert your cording.

 

That way you will have a 3/4 ruffled top on your pouch. Insert your cording with a safety pin attached to the end of the cording and by drawing it through the sewn casing. Draw the cording up and through and tie a double knot in the ends of the cording to place them together. (I used ribbon on these two purses and tieded the ends in a pretty bow). You can sew beads onto your pouches after they are completed. Click HERE TO GO TO MY BEADED POUCHES SECTION! There you can learn how to do netting on your pouches.


CARTRIGE PLEATING A SKIRT

 

Measure out four yards of fabric for the length of your skirt. Make sure you have enough length on the four yards to make it to the floor with your shoes on. Remember your hoop always takes up about 2+ inches more in the back. Put your front panels on the ends of the 4 yards and also make sure to put the underlining on (a connected panel that is sewn onto the edge of your front panels and then turned under. (you want your front flaps to by underlined just in case they flip up while you dance -- you wouldn't want to show your sewing underseams : ) Now turn over the top edge twice so that you have a 1/4 inch rolled finished edge. Pin this and sew it down along the four yards (you want a finished edge on the top for your cartridge pleating as you will be sewing edge to edge and need finished edges.

 

To Attached the Waistband. Make a waistband to your waist size, with flat edges meeting each other (no overlap, as you will want them to meet in the center of your waist. Take the two pieces, right side together and sew them around, leaving a small gap to turn the band inside out. Turn the band inside out, and sew all around the band about 1/4 inch away from the edge (to strengthen the band, I sewed lined down the entire length of the velvet band so that it wouldn't roll from the weight of the skirting). I then attached the front panels of the four yards of material to each of the end edges of the band (once again working from the inside edges to the middle) then when you have the flat edges sewn down on the waistband, take a 4 yard length of carpet thread and take large tacking stitches in the rest of the four yards of material (at the 1/4 rolled top edge). Then draw up the material until the pleats measure the same length as the waistband. Begin to tack the top edge of the pleats to the edge of the waistband using a whipstitch. (see the small white gap in the picture where I have the last pleat to tack into place. Remember that one edge of your pleat will always be free to swing and that you will only be tacking one edge which is why you must whipstitch your material well, or the weight will break the threads. Also use carpet thread for whipstitching your skirt on...it's very tough thread! If you whipstitch your waistband correctly your pleats will swing out and over your hoopskirt beatifully! It is such a lovely effect that it is worth the extra effort!


Decorating your Forepart and Foreskirt

 

A show of beads on the Forepart of a ladies bodice is always a welcome sight. Try using pearls, gold beads, glass beads in colors of the times for an authentic look. Embroidery always helps a design with beads in it. Always do your beadwork before attaching your bodice lining, as you won't want your stitches to show through your lining.

 

I am known for my beaded foreparts : ) Having done many Italian Brocade ones with tons of peals on them. Here is a picture of a recent design I've just started on my newest forepart. I will have pictures of the whole outfit to share with you soon : )


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